I reckon I first had a quattro formaggi pizza when I was on holiday in Italy with the family, either in 1996 or 2001. It was completely revelatory. It’s probably one of those foods that can never be quite as eye-opening after the first time, like Tom Yam soup or Philz coffee, but it’s still a great, great pizza. The only time I’ve ever sent food back in a restaurant was at a Pizza Express when I discovered that their quattro formaggi a) had tomato sauce on it and b) did not include gorgonzola. It was kind of my fault for not reading the menu but I just assumed they would do it properly (which is a decent assumption at Pizza Express!), but I was so disappointed that when the server came over to ask how everything was I sort of looked sad and mumbled something about how I thought it would be different and they were totally cool with bringing out something else instead, for which I’m grateful.

Anyway, recently Mette’s been making quattro formaggi at home and it’s still brilliant. Here is an aerial view of this evening’s edition:

In close up:

And after emerging from the oven.

It was great. It’s a well easy thing to make, but for reference, here’s Delia.